1. Field
The present invention relates to hair care compositions of matter such as moisturizers, shampoos, conditioners, coloring agents, permanents, and body giving compositions, and to methods utilizing such compositions.
2. State of the Art
In today's market, it is estimated that approximately forty percent (40%) of the population of the United States utilizes some method of hair coloring and probably a like percentage use some products for permanents, waves or straightening the hair. In using traditional techniques, each time the hair is treated, its structure is altered and usually altered in a fashion that is detrimental to the hair shaft.
Traditional technology in dealing with hair coloring, conditioning and perming introduces destructive change into the various components of the hair, i.e., the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle is composed of a layer of flattened, horny scales made up of keratinized protein. These scales overlap and move over one another to provide a flexible protection, like an armor covering of the hair shaft. Current technology requires use of an alkaline substance which hydrolyzes the scales, which causes them to swell and raise from the hair shaft. Normal procedure then utilizes an acid rinse to stop the alkaline hydrolysis process. The cortex portion of the hair shaft is made up of intertwined molecules of keratin protein. Processing of the hair in alkaline solutions induces softening of keratin through hydrolysis and reduction of strong disulfide bonds. The central portion of the hair fiber is known as the medulla and is composed of soft keratin. The cortex is probably the most important portion of the hair structure as it relates to coloring or perming of the hair.
At the current time, all processing of the hair for coloring or permanents is a result of an alkaline hydrolysis. Alkaline solutions disrupt the cuticular layer and allow penetration of water which causes swelling of the hair. The enlarged pores in the cuticle will allow dye components in aqueous solution to penetrate the hair cuticle. These dye particles can then be trapped inside the cortex of the hair by oxidation and condensation. This imparts a permanent color to the hair.
Current technology for pemanent hair coloring is based upon oxidation procedure requiring the use of a peroxide. Initial application of an alkaline solution to the hair causes the disulfide bonds of the protein matrix to be altered or broken. The molecules of the dye components are of sufficiently small molecular size to penetrate the hair cuticle when it is opened by use of an alkaline solution. This allows water and the small dye components to be carried into the hair shaft itself. A peroxide solution is then applied to the hair and penetrates into the hair shaft to oxidize these dye components and cause them to become enlarged and produce color. The enlargement of the dye components upon oxidation traps them in the hair. This is then followed by an acid rinse or conditioning to counteract the action of the alkaline solution and stop its further damaging action to the hair. Even with the acid rinse, however, the alkaline environment is very damaging to the hair shaft. The hair and the hair proteins are resistent to weak acids. It would be far more desirable to carry out the hair coloring in an acid solution or a neutral pH solution. However, currently known procedures do not allow the use of an acid solution for relatively permanent hair coloring since it will not allow the penetration into the hair shaft or the break down of disulfide bonds. Acid hair coloring compositions are currently available, but the coloring is surface based and usually lasts for only a matter of weeks.
Perming is a two step process. Step one uses an alkaline solution to break the disulfide bonds in the hair cuticle and step two rejoins them in a new position. Different perm formulas break disulfide bonds in different ways. In cold waves, the reforming lotion does the work. In heat activated perms, heat and tension are required in addition to the reforming lotion. In both cases, the reduction process softens the protein and allows it to assume the shape of the curler. The final step in every perm is to saturate the hair with a chemical oxidizing agent, called a neutralizer. Again, the alkaline used to break the disulfide bonds can do significant damage to the hair.